So, Jan and I just returned from a wonderful trip to the Maine coast. We stayed in the great little seaside village of Camden, and took in all the sights and checked all the boxes. Upon arrival at the Portland Jetport, we drove directly to McLoon’s Lobster Shack in Thomaston, Maine, and had the obligatory lobster roll. It was fabulous as I had not had a lobster roll in 40 years. My last one was in Bethel, Vermont at a roadside restaurant named Tozier’s. But that was a long time to go without tasting another lobster roll. This one did not disappoint.
We also hit the Bar Harbor Lobster Pound later in the week, but we have to give the nod to McLoon’s for the sandwich and the view of the harbor from the Adirondack Chairs.
Some of the other checked boxes were a sail boat ride on the Schooner Surprise. Built in 1918, it was a beauty of a restored vessel and the day was superb on the Penobscot Bay. Our Captain Laird was so excited that a schooner built over 100 years ago was able to do 9.1 knots on the return trip. We did a lot of walking in the village of Camden and also made an excursion to Rockland, Maine and took in the Farnsworth Art Museum which featured many of the works of the Wyeth family. NC, Andrew, and Jamie and all of their relations. Amazing that the whole family, including cousins, were all artists and featured in the museum.
We also drove almost two hours to see Acadia National Park and drove the route around the park to see the sights. Unfortunately, the park was jammed with cars and people and some of the sights we were unable to see even if we did have a reservation. Seems to be the norm now with National Parks. You at least have to have a reservation and parking is a challenge. But we were able to take in what we could and headed back to Camden.
Checking the boxes on restaurants, lobster, and seaside views, we were always on the move as is our custom. But the physical activities of the days were all about hiking and the place to go is the Camden HIlls State Park just north of town. Jan and I like to hike and with the leaves changing rapidly in Maine, the anticipated views of the coastal mountains and the bay were on our mind. We were told that the trails leading to Mt. Battie were the ones to take for the views from the top, and we began our first hike anticipating a nice long jaunt. What we didn’t know, and no one told us, was that the ” moderate to strenuous hike” as outlined in the website, was a lot to bite off and chew. I kind of chuckled when we started to ascend rough granite sections of the trail and eventually had to climb on all fours to proceed on the almost vertical sections. Coming back down on our butts and all fours in certain sections, was also interesting as the method of descent. For a mountain with only about a 1000 vertical from sea level, it is a brute if you take the more challenging trails. Janet was a trooper, as I am somewhat familiar with hiking in the New England mountains. I always knew that steep granite sections were the norm, but this little coastal mountain which is dwarfed by the Whites of New Hampshire and the Greens of Vermont and the Adirondacks, was still a challenge for anyone attempting to see the views from the top.
I also got a kick out of the locals, many with gray hairs and years in their hiking boots, smiling and making their way. I have always marveled at how some people attempt bicycle centuries and running marathons and don’t really look the part. “How in the world are they ever going to make it?”, I always said. New Englanders are unphased, and their grizzle is readily apparent on the hikes up Mt. Battie.
Jan and I took another trail on another day which was still a rugged climb on tombstone granite rocks. The park ranger who gave us a senior discount to enter, was very vague when we asked for recommendations for alternate hikes. In typical Maine fashion, he was low key and left the decision basically to us. We surged onward and Jan was once again a trooper as we made our way up and then descended, sometimes on our butts over sheer granite sheets, grabbing whatever we could with our hands so as not to slide totally off the trail. You know, you can drive to the top of Mt. Battie? But why do that when you can get some exercise and scare yourself on some vertical rock formations? Those New Englanders are tough ,and we were impressed with our fellow senior citizens who took it all in stride. Understatement is always the mood of people from that end of the country, and I have always liked the “can do”,” no problem” of hikers and skiers from the northeast.
As a tribute to Mt. Battie, we bought some Maine State Parks trucker hats from the ranger at the station and after a rather non-eventful conversation, we made it back to our bed and breakfast in Camden- The Hideaway Inn http://www.hideawayinnmaine.com Highly recommended with wonderful hosts- Rick and Charles.
On the last day, we proudly wore out hats and pounded down some pancakes for breakfast with plump, Maine blueberries and Maine maple syrup. Another checked box on our exit from the Pine Tree State.
Reflecting back on our trip this week, Jan and I both say we want to go back to Camden. We loved the seaside atmosphere, the sailboats in the harbor, the hiking, and the food. We have both skied in Maine, and it was a nice alternative to see the coast in the fall. I would highly recommend it especially this time of year. And if you want to battle Battie, go for it. The challenge and the views are really well worth the effort. Thanks for reading and ……………………..think snow!
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